Hoi An has redeemed Vietnam for Erin and I. The quiet little city near the sea has quite a lot of charm. There are silk tailors with dresses and suits out on display next to beautiful lantern shops and art boutiques. The charm doesn't appear to have been hit by either the Vietnam war or modernization. The buildings and pretty streets feel older. The fact that they're tiny and not allowing anything bigger than scooters helps.
There are some nice restaurants, too. Erin and I had some really nice Italian food tonight, but that's not the pearl of Hoi An. There's a restaurant here called Mango Rooms that's absolutely fantastic. It's really expensive by local standards, but that only means $30 for a 3 course meal and drinks for two people. The horror! Our guidebook says Mic Jagger has even stopped by. I wouldn't have blamed him. Plus I found a street-food staple that I really, really like: Cau Lau. It's a bowl of noodles with grilled pork, lettuce, and mint on top in a flavored soy-based sauce. Too bad it's only a Hoi An thing.
Tomorrow Erin and I head off for the My Son ruins and then fly to Saigon the day after. Hopefully We'll find more foodstuffs worth blogging about there.